La Barra de al Lado

The place

La Barra de al Lado is narrow and long, like the bars of Madrid and Lisbon, and it sits right next to Marea, the seafood restaurant of the same family, in Roma Norte. Its center is vermouth. The house vermouth, citrusy and herbal, arrives with olives and a slice of orange, and beside it are Spanish and Italian vermouths, white, rosé, and red. The wine list has Mexican labels from Coahuila and San Luis Potosí, Spanish and French ones, and four Portuguese naturals, plus sherry and a little mezcal. There are signature cocktails and tapas to nibble on, such as squid, croquettes, sardines, and olives. A separate corner sells tinned goods and jars with family recipes, to take home boquerones, anchovies, pâté, pickled vegetables, and sauces.